Things we Learnt

There are some things we wish we'd known before we started the building project.

Conversely, there are some things we're really glad we did.

Maybe they'll help you.

Outside	Dumping topsoil while excavating is an expensive exercise. Purchasing more topsoil after the job is completed is even more expensive. Using someone else’s free topsoil can be hazardous, resulting in all sorts of unwanted weeds, and often bucketloads of broken glass and crockery creating hazards for you and your family for the next few years. (yup, done this.) If you can possibly arrange it, hold on to your own topsoil for re-use, if you’re a bit strapped for cash. Nailing on decking - make sure you stand back and check the "big picture" before merrily nailing down what you think is straight. Appearances can be deceptive from close up!
General	Be aware that whatever your local Council says it’ll cost to either subdivide or build, it’ll almost certainly cost significantly more. Any language such as “overland flow path” or “once-in-100-year-flood” being uttered by your local Council actually means “hassle” and “$$$”. Not that you can’t overcome it, just be aware. Invest in a large folder and set of dividers to keep your documentation in order. Especially if you’re doing several projects at once, like we did. If you’re short on cash, look at using a designer to draw up the plans for your house, rather than a fully fledged architect. Especially if you’ve got ideas on how you want your place to look already. An architect will usually charge you a percentage of the cost of your house, whereas a designer charges a flat fee for the work done. Take your time finding a good builder. It makes all the difference to stress levels during the building process. Make sure your builder is flexible enough to let you do what you need to do on your house to save yourself some money. Such as, allowing you to paint it yourself, or possibly use tradespeople who you know can give you a good deal. Do you really want to be painting the outside of your house in years to come? (Especially if it’s two storey!) Build brick!! It cost us a little more to build two storey brick, but we’ll be saving that in years of low, low maintenance. Be aware that any tradespeople you use who are not part of a builder’s contract, you will be responsible for. You will need to make sure they turn up when they’re supposed to, and do a good job. Solar water heating can be a good option for making your house more economic to run. Otherwise, gas could be worth looking at (whether it’s in your street, or in canisters). Consider going above the required specifications for insulation in your ceilings and walls. The standard requirement of R1.8 in walls and R2.3 in ceilings will not keep you cosy warm in winter. We used R2.6 in the walls, and R3.2 batts in the ceiling and found the slightly higher cost has been hugely offset by the much more pleasant living environment—the house stays warmer in the winter, and cooler in summer. There’s also the added benefit of noise insulation. Speaking of noise insulation, you will not regret insulating internal walls between bathrooms and bedrooms. Especially when your bathroom backs onto a guest room.I wish we had. Noise insulation between ceilings and upstairs floors will be invaluable in years to come. A ventilation system of some sort will keep your house dry long term, making it easier to heat. It’s worth it to not be wiping dripping windows in winter, or constantly cleaning mould off walls. Invest in a good vacuum cleaner. It’ll make cleaning those new carpets much more pleasant! If you have personal items to store while building, look at purchasing a good quality large garden shed to store as much as you can onsite, rather than paying for storage. The shed you’ll have for keeps, so it’s a good investment. We actually bought two of them, with a built in wooden floor, one for each lot, and they’ve been brilliant.
Plumbing	Instant gas heaters mean you’ll never run out of hot water—which can be a handy thing if you have teenagers in the house! Consider lagging any water or waste pipes that run near your bedroom or living areas of the house. Our builder procured for us several metres of (very expensive) lagging, and I spent several evenings taping it round the waste pipes of the upstairs toilet and bath that ran over our dining area. I also lagged the main water pipe which runs right beside our bed. It is pleasant being unable to hear the water (waste or otherwise) running along beside or over your head. Worth the cost. If you can’t afford top of the range plumbing fittings (and not many of us can) don’t buy the cheapest either, as they won’t last the distance. There are some reasonably good middle of the range options available that still look nice after years. To possibly save some cash, talk to your plumber about doing a labour only rate, and purchasing your tapware directly from the supplier, where you may be able to negotiate a houselot cheaper.
Doors	Once the front door frame had been built, we realised that the opening which was to have been a door with a fixed side panel, would be much nicer and more practical if we could open the whole space. So we made a slight modification and the fixed side panel was changed to a half door which stays closed most of the time, but which can open in the summer, or to allow easy access for large funiture or fittings. If you're thinking of painting your doors inside the garage, with enamel paint, don’t. You’ll asphixiate. Our suggestion is to shop round for an enamel spray service. If you remove the doors for painting, use letter and number punches to mark the hinge or top edge of the door for easy identification when reinstalling them.
Windows	If you wish to buy your window dressings “off the rack”, rather than have them specially made, you need to consider the maximum standard sizes available for purchase in a shop. In New Zealand, most stores only stock certain window widths, with a maximum width of 1.8m. (didn’t think of this til too late. All our windows were 2.0m) Whether you want large windows with a light airy feel is offset by your ability to place furniture. We have had many discussions regarding “nowhere to put the sofa” versus “dark poky corner”. Hopefully you can design your house so you end up with a wall to put the sofa on AND plenty of natural light! Safety glass cannot be cut. If you want to have a cat door, or such like, make sure you put the order in before your doors arrive on site. Otherwise your bill for a cat door will include the replacement glass, making it uneconomic, and your pet cross. Double glazing, if it’s optional in your area, is a good choice, although it adds quite a bit to the cost of your windows. You’ll save it in years to come with less heat lost through the glass tho. Safety catches of a permanent variety are a better option for second storey windows than having your children fall out them. I’m glad we put them on the bedrooms before moving in. Definitely worth the extra cost.
Bedrooms	Window heights—consider what will ‘go along’ what wall. Large windows are all very well, but don’t make them too low if you are going to put something against the wall beneath it. Especially on a second storey. eg—if there is to be a dresser against the wall under a window make sure that the bottom of the window is higher than the dresser top. If you are you going to use bunks it is best not to have a window on that wall. If you use bunks, consider reading lamp placement for at least the top bunk. If you don’t wish to make a permanent lamp in an odd place, then clip on lamps are available, but they’re not as sturdy.
Electrics	Power points—there is no such thing as too many. Try to get more than you think you will ever need because adding these later can be prohibitively expensive. Consider placement—if you place them in the middle of a wall they will be difficult to use if you are going to place something along that wall such as a bookcase or a sofa. Back-to-back power points ( on both sides of the wall ) reduces cost for cable running as the cable for both points can go through the same access holes. Placing power points close to doorways means that the wall space will be freed up and the cable can most probably be run through the same access holes as the light switches that are often placed near the doors. If you are having your house architecturally designed, have a talk with your architect about lighting. While sufficient lighting is absolutely necessary, 100 small halogen lights burning 50 watts each is not. If you want to be able to afford your electricity bill in years to come, plan at least some lighting that uses long-life fluorescent bulbs. Consider placing lighting above your wardrobe doors, so you’re not poking blindly into your cupboards. A single halogen lamp will do the trick (on a separate switch, so you only turn it on when you need it.) Save your halogen bulbs for places where you need bright, directional light such as over the kitchen bench – or your wardrobes. Another thing about light placement, especially in bedrooms for reading lamps - make sure they won't be in the way of hanging curtains!
Kitchen	Design a place for your rubbish bin into your kitchen cupboards. A broom cupboard near or in the kitchen is a handy thing. Drawers are functionally more useful than cupboards. Avoid having your cooking top or stove against a wall, if at all possible. This is also a safety issue with such things as pot handles having nowhere to safely turn if they’re next to a wall. Think about your lighting in the kitchen. It’s good if your kitchen lights are able to be directed so you’re not working in your own shadow.
Bathroom	The principle that drawers hold more than cupboards holds here too. We’ve found it’s easier to find things in a “slightly” messy drawer, than have everything fall out of the cupboard every time the door is opened. If you have an upstairs bathroom, consider where any overflow water is able to escape to. It’s better to have an extra drain or two than the bath falling through the floor. An extractor fan is a good option for removing extra moisture from your house. A shower dome would stop the moisture from wetting the bathroom in the first place. We haven’t got round to installing one yet, but it’s on the “would like to have” list.
Safety	Escape Routes. Do you have an escape plan, possibly including fire escape ladders from a second storey? Burglar alarms. Great to have, but make sure when insulation is being put into your house, the tradespeople pull out the wiring!! (oops) Smoke alarms – don't think any Councils will sign off your house without them fortunately. Have plenty. If you can possibly afford it, look at building a sprinkler system into your new home. I wish we had. Invest in a couple of fire extinguishers, especially one to keep near the kitchen.